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DANGRIGA

(Stop 14 of 18)

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Dangriga, the largest town in the Stann Creek District, is located 55 miles from Belmopan and 105 miles from Belize City. With a population of 8100, it is one of the largest Garifuna communities in the world. The town was originally called Stann Creek when it was a small English trading station. But in 1975 the name was changed to Dangriga by the Garifuna majority of the town.
Dangriga takes it name from the local Garifuna language, loosely meaning "here, the sweet water is close at hand." It lies peacefully along the banks of the North Stann Creek River, whose water is legendary. The town's drinking supply is refreshingly cool and arguably the best tasting in Belize.

Of all the larger settlements in Belize, Dangriga has most obviously resisted the unrelenting pull of the present. It was settled in the early 19th century by the Garifuna, also known as Garinagu or Black Caribs. They are a unique blend of escaped African slaves and Caribbean island Indians. Their story begins on the island of St. Vincent, where, before the arrival of Europeans, Carib Indians arrived from South America to subdue the Arawak people and absorb their culture.

Dangriga Street Scene
Dangriga Street Scene

The English and French ventured into the Caribbean in 1625, beginning 35 years of warfare against the Caribs. In 1660, a British peace treaty guaranteed the "perpetual possession" of the islands of St. Vincent and Dominica to the Carib people. But eight years later the British broke the treaty and took possession of the islands.
Meanwhile in 1635, two Spanish ships carrying captured Nigerian slaves were shipwrecked off the St. Vincent coast. Some of the African captives managed to swim ashore and found shelter in the Carib settlements. The relationship between the two races went from reluctant acceptance to intermittent warfare and finally wholesome fusion of the two.
Dangriga from 2,000 ft.
Dangriga From 2,000 ft.

By 1773, this hybrid people now known as Garifuna, was the dominant population of St. Vincent. But Europeans were ready to take over the entire Caribbean, and the colonial forces would never allow a free black community. More and more British settlers landed on St. Vincent, and in 1796, following repeated raids to remove British settlers, the Caribs attempted an all out attack. Five thousand Black Caribs were captured and the great Carib Chief Joseph Chatoyer was killed.
The Landing by B. Nicholas
The Landing by B. Nicholas

Fearful of resurgence of Black Caribs, in less than a year, Britain deported some 2,000 to the island of Roatan. Many died of disease on the journey and the rest were abandoned with supplies for only three months. Those that survived were faced with continued persecution in Honduras and this time they moved on to British Honduras now known as Belize. In 1832, under the leadership of Alejo Beni, a large group of Garifuna landed on the coast of Stann Creek followed by many more. They've been there ever since, and on November 19th a celebration is held in commemoration of their arrival.
Besides the annual 19th November celebration,which includes the reenactment of the arrival of the Garifunas followed by a mass in Garifuna, there is performed during the Christmas season the popular John Canoe dance, or wanaragua. The dancers wear masks which resemble the English face with a pencil thin mustache, topped by a colorful handmade hat. The dances incorporate martial arts movements and was first performed to hone the skills of warrior slaves.
The Garifuna are also skilled artists. Primitivism dominates their paintings, with great elaboration of details, flat colors, and unreal perspective. Benjamin Nicholas' paintings depict events in Garifuna history as well as lifestyle and culture. Pen Cayetano is also an accomplished painter, whose work is more realistic than other painters but it still retains the attractive aspects of primitivism.
Chakanari Dancer
Garifuna Chakanari Dancer

Dangriga Garifuna are noted for their crafts. For the last thirty years, Austin Rodriquez has hollowed out hefty logs of cedar and mahogany to make drums. He cures his own deer and cow hides with lime, salt and the sun before working them over the head of the drums ranging from 6 inches to 2 feet in diameter.
Dangriga Sunrise
Dangriga Sunrise

The town's dreamy atmosphere still harks back to a past age. The houses are made of weathered wooden planks and raised on stilts. Fishing dories lie tied up along the banks of the river.

But of course the modern world has crept in. Instead of pursuing the traditional fishing and farming, many Garifuna have become teachers and civil servants. Cable television is in Dangriga and a steady flow of cash from large expatriate communities has allowed some wooden houses to be replaced by concrete. Between the slow pace of traditional subsistence living and the headlong rush for materialism, little attention has been paid to creating a tourist image in Dangriga.


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